Young Lion in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, Mkuze, South Africa

Madagascar – Tana to Maroantsetra

I again joined Des Ong and his friend Denis on another exploratory trip in the fall of 2018. This time we visited the Masoala Peninsula in Madagascar and then the Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. I first arrived in Antananarivo, which is the capital and largest city in Madagascar. Antananarivo, which is hard to remember and pronounce is also called by its colonial shorthand name Tana. 

We stayed at the nice hotel Relais des Plateaux Hotel in Tana. At breakfast the next morning I met a British photographer named Will Burrard-Lucas. He also owns a company called Camtraptions, that makes camera traps and the BeetleCam. He was there doing some of his own photography. While Des finished up with his clients on his latest Madagascar tour, Denis and I visited the Tsarasaotra Park in the city. The park is a private bird park in the center of the city. We walked around the small lake and photographed a few birds including the Malagasy Kingfisher.

The next morning we boarded a plane to the city of Maroantsetra, which is the main access to Masoala National Park. We had a short layover in the airport in Toamasina where we met Pierre Bester, the owner of the Masoala Forest Lodge in Masoala. Checking his webiste, www.masoalaforestlodge.com and reviews, it looks like a very beautiful lodge near Masoala National Park. We then boarded a small 20 seat De Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter to Maroantsetra. 

In Maroantsetra, we took a boat ride on the Antainambalana River and that night we stayed in the Masoala Resort. The next morning we took a long boat ride to Masoala National Park.

Masoala National Park, Madagascar

In Masoala, we stayed at the rustic but comfortable Arol Eco-Lodge. The bungalows where a short walk from the ocean into the forest. We took day and night hikes into the forest and found rare Red Ruffed Lemurs and Helmet Vangas, as well as White-fronted Brown Lemurs, Panther Chameleons and Leaf-tailed Geckos.

Most of the food came from the garden behind the kitchen and the sea. The weather was hot and humid and the hiking were steep. But, it was a unique and wonderful rain forest in the hard to get to northeast corner of Madagascar.

Nosy Mangabe, Madagascar

On our way back from Masoala we stopped on Nosy Mangabe. This is one of the small islands in Antongil Bay that is part of Masoala National Park. We spent the day looking for the smallest chameleon, Peyrieras’ pygmy chameleon (Brookesia peyrierasi) and also the Climbing or Green-backed Mantella frog (Mantella laevigata).

We also photographed leaf-tailed geckos and some fairly tame White-Fronted Lemurs. We had a great lunch of fresh shrimp and pasta before leaving by boat for Maroantsetra.

“Be Vewy, Vewy Quiet” Water Thick-knee and Nile Crocodile, Zimanga Private Game Reserve, Mkuze, South Africa

MadAir Flight Delay – An Unplanned Day in Maroantsetra

We were scheduled to catch a plane back to Tana that day, but after checking in and waiting for some time, the flight was cancelled due to weather. It was too hot to make the flight. Apparently hot weather reduces the lift an aircraft can get and can also reduce power of the engines. This started a long and sometimes comical afternoon.

The airport in Maroantsetra is quite small and the local office for Air Madagascar (MadAir) was located a few miles away. We were taken there by taxi to wait for the staff that was called in to deal with our delay. Staff showed up and began typing and printing the necessary paperwork to change our reservations and to cover our lodging for the night since the next flight was the following day. Denis’ French came in handy as the staff was not too fluent in English. 

Once the forms were typed and printed, we waited for the “boss” to show up with the “official” stamp and colored pens to approve the forms. One at a time we approached his stately desk and waited for his approvals. 

Finally we were off by taxis to our unscheduled stay at the “luxurious” Motel Coco Beach. It was not the ocean, it was the river, and there was no beach, but the rooms were clean and the food was OK. MadAir picked up the entire tab for our one night stay including transportation, lodging, food and adult beverages. 

The next day we were scheduled to leave in the afternoon, but we were able to get on an earlier morning flight. After a little panic about missing our flight to South Africa that day, Des and his associates in Tana, were able to arrange our quick move through customs on our arrival and getting on our next flight to Durban. Fortunately, we had an extra day scheduled at Relais des Plateaux in Tana and this put us back on schedule for Zimanga Private Game Reserve.

African Elephants in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, Mkuze, South Africa

Zimanga, South Africa

Zimanga is the Zulu word for something unbelievable. The Zimanga Private Game Reserve is known for its multiple photographic hides designed by Bence Mate who pioneered the use of one-way glass. They even have a couple of overnight hides that you enter around dinner and leave after dawn. They are equipped with toilets, air-conditioning, microwaves and refrigerators. They also have bunk beds. The lodge provided us a nice take-out dinner for the night, and breakfast for the next morning.

We took turns watching out the one-way glass that overlooks a small pool of water which attracts the wildlife. We were hoping to see the elusive leopard or lion, but we were not that lucky. We did manage to see elephants, zebra, Spotted Eagle-owls, Cape Buffalo, nyala and giraffe. 

They also have other hides including the Lagoon Hide which is built next to a small lagoon. Within this hide you can photograph all kinds of birds and an occasional Nile Crocodile.

Another hide we visited was the Mkhombe Hide. It is a small pool designed to attract the smaller birds and to get reflections in the pool. We were able to photograph lots of colorful finches as well as other birds and an occasional Warthog.

We also spent a couple of mornings in the Scavenger’s Hill Hide. They encourage the scavengers with some meat scraps located out of site. It attracts vultures, storks, tawny eagles, kites, buzzards and jackals.

When we were not in the hide we were on a open-vehicle safari throughout the reserve with our photographic guide Calvin Kotze. We each had our own row of seats to shoot from so we never missed any action on either side of the vehicle.

The first day we photographed a group of lions by a stream or river. Another day we followed a pair of lions and another evening we followed two chetah brothers as they started their hunt. Calvin is also a wonderful photographer, so he understood what we were looking for. We were able to photograph lions, elephants, giraffe, water buffalo, rhino, and cheetah.

The main lodge was completed in April 2018 and is very luxurious and serves wonderful food. Breakfast was made to order and there were many selections for lunch. For dinner there was a choice of main entree and all food and service was outstanding. The rooms were modern, air-conditioned and very comfortable.

Zimanga Private Game Reserve is a great destination for photographers looking for a luxurious safari adventure. Zimanga has beautiful lodging, great food, knowledgable guides and friendly staff with the added bonus of Bence Mate designed wildlife hides.

Des Ong currently offers tours to South Africa and Madagascar. I don’t believe the current Madagascar tour includes Masoala but does include all of the other great locations in Madagascar.

You can find Des Ong’s workshops and tours at his website Captivating Nature.

Check out my South Africa Gallery and my Madagascar Gallery for more images from my trip.